COMMUNISM PEAK

TRIP DETAILS

Price: $2,850 USD + Guide/Equipment

Trip Length: 27 Days

Elevation: 7495 m (24,590 ft)

Trip Origin: Dushanbe, Tajikistan

Dates: July & August

Group: Individuals + Groups

Difficulty: Extreme

Experience: High Mountain Climbing

Highest Peak in the Pamir Mountains

With the breakup of the Soviet Union in 1998 and bringing independence to Tajikistan, Communism Peak was renamed Ismail Samani. However, names are hard to change in the climbing community and Communism Peak is still used today.

Rising to 7495 m (24,590 ft) above sea level, the mountain is the highest peak in the Pamirs, and the highest in the former Soviet Union. It is located at the junction of Academia Nauk and Pyotr Pyervy ridges and so remote it took explorers 20 years to find a way to it.

Communism Peak is a huge craggy mountain and heavily glaciated despite it rising above a dry, barren region. The rock is poor and the approach difficult, but because it is the highest of all the peaks in the region, climbers have been attracted to the mountain for decades. There are a variety of routes to the summit.

Even with its remote location and being the highest of the five 7000 meter peaks in Central Asia, it has been a goal of serious mountaineers. Successful climbers of all five peaks gain the title of “Snow Leopard”.

  • Highest of the five “Snow Leopard” peaks
  • Huge, craggy mountain and glaciated
  • Renamed Ismail Samani but Communism Peak still used
  • Remote location; Took 20 years to find a way to it
  • Variety of routes used to summit

Route Description

Camp locations

The safest route for Communism Peak leads from the Walter Glacier bivouac at 4500 m (14,764 ft) and across the Big Pamir Plateau at about 6000 m (19,685 ft), 3 km wide (1.9 mi) by 12 km long (7.5 mi). The ascent of Peak Dunshabe at 6950 m (22,802 ft) is reached by a long and steep ice slope. Hike up Walter Glacier and traverse through the northern slope (4 — 5 hrs).

Camp 1 at 5100 m (16,733 ft) — hiking up by the right side of the moraine of Walter Glacier. Crossing the glacier by the ice plateau under the walls of Pamir Big Plateau. It is necessary to cross it as early as possible and at maximum speed. Further, the route follows by a rock section to the crest (about 6-7 hours).

Camp 2 at 5800 m (19,029 ft) — northern ridge (4-5 hrs). This part of the route is technically not too difficult, wide snow crest with parts of 35-40 degrees steepness. The camp is located in mould.

Camp 3 at 6100 m (20,013 ft) — Pamir Big Plateau (4-5 hrs). Early start and ascent to the two-headed summit. Climbing in roped-party. Traverse to the left to the top and then descent to Pamir Big Plateau.

Camp 4 at 6700 m (21,982 ft) or 6900 m (22,638 ft) — northern snow/ice slope of Mt. Peak Dushanbe (7-8 hrs). Early start. Climbing in roped-party. The ascent is technically easy. After ascent to Mt. Peak Dushanbe at 7000 m (22,966 ft), descend to Camp 4. Ascent to summit with early start. The route climbs up the steep snow slope to the rocks. Above this, there is an exposed part leading to the summit. Back to Camp 4 (8-9 hrs).

Climbing Communism Peak

Sample itinerary

Day 1 – Arrival in Dushanbe. Accommodation in hotel
Day 2 – Take helicopter flight to Base Camp at Moskvina Glacier
Day 3 – Preparation day
Day 4 – Acclimatization climb to Vorobiova Peak to the camp at 5300 m (17,389 ft)
Day 5 – Climb the summit of Vorobiov Peak at 5690 m (18,668 ft). Descent to BC
Day 6 – Rest day
Day 7 – Preparation day
Day 8 – Ascent to Camp 1 at 5100 m (16,733 ft)
Day 9 – Ascent to Camp 2 at 5800 m (19,029 ft)
Day 10 – Descent to Base Camp
Day 11 – Rest day
Day 12 – Preparation day
Day 13 – Ascent to Camp 1 at 5100 m (16,733 ft)
Day 14 – Ascent to Camp 2 at 5800 m (19,029 ft)
Day 15 – Ascent to Camp 3 at 6100 m (20,013 ft)
Day 16 – Ascent to Camp 4 at 6700 m (21,982 ft) or 6900 m (22,638 ft)
Day 17 – Ascent to the summit at 7495 m (24,590 ft) and descent to Camp 4 or Camp 2
Day 18 – Descent to Camp 1 or Camp 2
Day 19 – Descent to Base Camp
Days 20-25 – Reserve days in case of bad weather
Day 26 – Take helicopter flight to Dushanbe. Overnight in hotel
Day 27 – Departure from Dushanbe

Guided Expedition

Inclusions & exclusions

Inclusions

  • Arranging of necessary documents
  • Meeting / seeing off transfers from / to airport
  • All transfers according to the program
  • Helicopter flights from Dushanbe to Base Camp (Moskvina Glacier)
    • Dushanbe with 30 kg (66 lbs) per person luggage limit (overload payment extra — max 10 kg/22 lbs)
  • Accommodation in shared (between 2-3 persons) tents (tents in the Base Camp are improved with wooden flooring, and electric lighting)
  • Full board (variety of food including vegetarian, 3 meals a day from professional chef, possibility for special personal ordering)
  • Toilets, luggage office (tent) at BC
  • Sauna (steam room) at BC
  • Medical services (by professional doctor) in BC
  • Electric supply 220V; 50HZ
  • High-altitude guide consultancy services
  • Registration with rescue team
  • Accommodation in Dushanbe (hotel 2* with breakfast, Twin room, 2 nights)

Exclusions

  • The cost of visa support
  • Document of acceptance of tourist
  • Tajikistan visa
  • Services of high-altitude guides and porters during ascending
  • Rent of mountaineering gear
  • Gas canisters and petrol for stoves and burners

Trip Pricing

From Dushanbe

Full Package Per Person

$2,850 USD

SEPARATE SERVICES & FEES

  • Accommodation in tents
  • Meals – breakfast, lunch and dinner
  • Shower/Sauna
  • New gas canisters
  • Satellite phone, e-mail, bar, etc. – according to price list of the Base Camp
  • Rent of radio station
  • Services of a mountain guide
  • Services of porters for ascending

When planning your expedition, please coordinate with our helicopter schedule to the mountain BEFORE booking air tickets.

RESERVE YOUR TRIP TODAY!

Select tour*

Number of persons+

Name*

Email*

Phone number*

Additional info