POBEDA PEAK

TRIP DETAILS

Price: $1,800 USD + Guide/Equipment

Trip Length: 26 Days

Elevation: 7439 m (24,406 ft)

Trip Origin: Almaty or Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan

Dates: July & August

Group: Individuals + Groups

Difficulty: Extreme

Experience: High Mountain Climbing

Highest Peak in Tian Shan Mountains

The highest point of the Tian Shan Mountains, rising 7439 m (24,406 ft) above sea level, Pobeda Peak occupies a special place in the history of mountaineering. As the most inaccessible, most formidable 7000’er, Pobeda Peak has attracted a great number of climbers from around the world.

The complex and broad structure of the peak impresses even the most experienced climbers as it rises more than 400 m (1,312 ft) above the other peaks of the Tian Shan range.Soviet mountain climbers attempted to climb the peak in the 1930’s but it wasn’t until the spring if 1943 that they reached the summit. The Soviet team named the unnamed mountain Pobeda Peak, which translates to Victory Peak in English.

To climb this mountain is rather exhausting and dangerous. Pobeda Peak is considered the coldest mountain on earth. One of the northernmost 7000 peaks, most routes start from the southwest. Because of all these factors, climbers experience additional difficulties reaching the summit. Many climbers, mostly Russian, have lost their lives on this mountain. Recent years have seen a decrease in climbing activity due to weather and route conditions. A successful ascent of Pobeda Peak depends greatly on choice of camp locations, as intermediate camps play a crucial role in severe conditions for restoring the morale and physical strengths of climbers.

  • Highest peak in the Tian Shan range
  • Demanding “Snow Leopard”
  • Successful routes from northwest and west
  • Camp locations key to success

Route Description

Camp locations

The most often climbed route, from the southwest, involves many kilometers of a mix of broken ridges which are all situated above 7000 m (22,966 ft).

Advanced base camp (Camp 1) is located at Zvjozdochka Glacier at 4600 m (15,092 ft). Then early in the morning we head for Camp 2 at 5300 m (17,389 ft) on Dickiy Pass. Camp 3 is at Snow Plateau at 5700 m (18,701 ft), where we will either use snow caves or tents. Higher camps (Camp 4 and 5) are then established at 6400 m (20,998 ft) and 6900 m (22,638 ft), the upper camp (Camp 6) being just before the long traverse about 6 km (3.8 mi) long at an elevation above 7000 m (22,966 ft) to the summit ridge. A final snow cave is normally established at 7100 m (23,294 ft) towards the other end of the long traverse. The summit day is relatively long.

Climbing Pobeda Peak

Sample itinerary

Day 1 – Arrival to Almaty or Bishkek, transfer to Base Camp Karkara. Overnight in tent
Day 2 – Rest day or acclimatization hiking near camp
Day 3 – Helicopter flight to Base Camp South Inylchek
Day 4 – Rest and acclimatization
Day 5 – Rest and acclimatization
Day 6 – Ascent to Camp 1 at 4600 m (15,092 ft)
Day 7 – Ascent to Camp 2 at 5300 m (17,389 ft)
Day 8 – Ascent to Camp 3 at 5700 m (18,701 ft)
Day 9 – Ascent to Camp 4 at 6400 m (20,998 ft)
Day 10 – Descent to the Base Camp South Inylchek
Day 11 – Rest day
Day 12 – Rest day
Day 13 – Ascent to Camp 1 at 4600 m (15,092 ft)
Day 14 – Ascent to Camp 2 at 5300 m (17,389 ft)
Day 15 – Ascent to Camp 3 at 5700 m (18,701 ft)
Day 16 – Ascent to Camp 4 at 6400 m (20,998 ft)
Day 17 – Ascent to Camp 5 at 6900 m (22,638 ft)
Day 18 – Ascent to Camp 6 at 7100 m (23,294 ft)
Day 19 – Ascent to the summit 7439 m (24,406 ft) and descent to Camp 5
Day 20 – Descent to Camp 3
Day 21 – Descent to Camp 1
Day 22 – Descent to the Base Camp South Inylchek
Day 23 – Reserve day
Day 24 – Reserve day
Day 25 – Helicopter flight to Base Camp Karkara and drive to Almaty or Bishkek. Accommodation and overnight in a hotel or guest-house
Day 26 – Transfer to airport and departure

Guided Expedition

Inclusions & exclusions

Inclusions

  • Ecological tax
  • Visa support (if necessary)
  • Border zone access permit
  • All transfers (in accordance with program)
  • Return helicopter flight Karkara — South Inylchek with no limit of baggage
  • Guesthouse or hotel accommodation on half twin base in Almaty or Bishkek
  • Lunch boxes on the way to Base Camp and back
  • Full board in Base Camps Karkara and South Inylchek
  • Accommodation in double tents in Base Camps
  • Dining tent and kitchen tent in BC and ABC
  • Cooking accessories in BC and ABC
  • Consultations of experience guide
  • Interpreter’s service in BC and ABC
  • Medical aid in ABC (including complete set of oxygen equipment — mask, reducer, cylinder)
  • Radio support — therefore you have to bring your own portable radio
  • Permanent source of Electricity in Base Camp Karkara — 20V, 50Hz
  • Power generator (220V) for lighting and charging in the evening time in Base Camp South Inylchek
  • Washing cabin and sauna in Base Camp
  • Toilets in BC and ABC
  • Evacuation of garbage from BC and ABC

Exclusions

  • Cost of visa
  • Insurance
  • Guide service
  • International flights
  • Cost of rescue team support (depends on difficulty of rescue works)
  • Personal climbing equipment
  • High altitude climbing tents
  • Food away from base camps
  • Alcoholic beverages

Trip Pricing

From Almaty/Bishkek

Full Package Per Person

$1,800 USD

SEPARATE SERVICES & FEES

  • Guide service
  • High altitude tent
  • Kovea gas cartridge
  • Other equipment

When planning your expedition, please coordinate with our helicopter schedule to the mountain BEFORE booking air tickets.

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