KHAN TENGRI PEAK

TRIP DETAILS

Price: $2,050+ USD + Guide/Equipment

Trip Length: 20 Days

Elevation: 7010 m (22,999 ft)

Trip Origin: Almaty or Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan

Dates: July & August

Group: Individuals + Groups

Difficulty: Extreme

Experience: High Mountain Climbing

Ruler of the Sky

Khan Tengri Peak, rising 7010 m (22,999 ft) above sea level, is located on the border between Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. The beauty of Khan Tengri is often hard to describe, but must be seen firsthand. The first description was given in by famous traveler and photographer P.P. Semenov from the headwaters of the Karkara River while traveling the Tian Shan Mountains.

Khan Tengri’s name means “Lord of the Spirits” or “Lord of the Heavens”. The peak is extremely beautiful during sunset as surrounding peaks start dipping into darkness, the marble-pyramid shape of Khan Tengri Peak is painted bright red from the setting sun.

The enchanting ridge lines and rose-gray marble facade has attracted the attention of people for centuries. Every year the peak attracts many climbers from all over the world.

One of the classical routes we offer is by starting the ascent from the south; the Western Col is reached from the southern Inylchek Glacier. Among mountaineers, this route is very popular with three or four camps typically used depending on weather conditions.

  • “Lord of the Spirits”
  • Awe-inspiring peak
  • Pyramid-shape; Beautiful at sunset
  • 3-4 camps typically used when climbing

Route Description

Camp locations

The West Ridge for Khan Tengri climbing is a classic route that presents a reasonable objective for competent mountaineers. The ridge rises from the West Col, which is very enjoyable, straightforward ‘scrambling’ for the most part, with steep rocky steps linked with snow patches.

There are only a couple of sections which require more care; such as the vertical rock step of about 50 ft at 6,800 m ( ft) and the knife above. In terms of equipment needed once on the route, a single ice axe is sufficient, although the addition of a ski pole might be useful.

From the snow caves (near the West Col) a short snow/ice slope of 40°, which is fixed with rope, leads up to the West Col at 6000m (22,310 ft). The Col is narrow and heavily corniced and the top of the fixed ropes should be carefully noted. A traverse along the Col leads to the mixed ground of the West Ridge where the angle steepness. The route then follows the West Ridge via a number of small bivouac sites at 6200 m (20,341 ft), 6400 m (20,998 ft) and 6700 m (21,982 ft).

Almost the entire ridge is fixed with rope, but these need to be used with caution as their condition and the anchors are variable (the ropes are renewed at the beginning of every summer season by local guides). The route follows the crest of the ridge with snow and scrambling interspersed with steeper rock sections until 6,700 m (21,982 ft). Here a traverse rightwards across snow slopes reaches a steep rock step of some 20 m (66 ft) which is severe in standard.

Above this the route climbs into a snow basin and then traverses out rightwards again to exit onto a short steep knife edged snow ridge of some 50 m (164 ft) which is very exposed. This is followed leftwards to a steeper section of mixed ground.

Above this, the fixed rope ends and there remains around 300 m (984 ft) of easy snow climbing for half an hour to reach the summit. The true summit is rather difficult to find, being a large flat snow dome, so the summit point is marked by a metal tripod.

The descent from the summit is very quick using the fixed ropes. The snow caves can be reached in about 3 hours.

Climbing Khan Tengri Peak

South side sample itinerary

Day 1 – Arrival to Almaty/Bishkek, transfer to Base Camp Karkara. Overnight in tent in BC
Day 2 – Rest day or acclimatization hiking near camp
Day 3 – Helicopter flight to Base Camp South Inylchek
Day 4 – Rest and acclimatization
Day 5 – Rest and acclimatization
Day 6 – Ascent to Camp 1 at 4200 m (13,780 ft)
Day 7 – Ascent to Camp 2 at 5500 m (18,045 ft)
Day 8 – Ascent to Camp 3 at 5900 m (19,357 ft)
Day 9 – Descent to the Base Camp South Inylchek
Day 10 – Rest day
Day 11 – Rest day
Day 12 – Ascent to Camp 1 at 4200 m (13,780 ft)
Day 13 – Ascent to Camp 3 at 5900 m (19,357 ft)
Day 14 – Ascent to Camp 4 at 6400 m (20,998 ft)
Day 15 – Ascent to the summit 7010 m (22,999 ft) and descent to Camp 2
Day 16 – Descent to the Base Camp
Day 17 – Reserve day
Day 18 – Reserve day
Day 19 – Helicopter flight to Base Camp Karkara and drive to Almaty/Bishkek. Accommodation and overnight in a hotel or guesthouse
Day 20 – Transfer to airport and departure

South Side Guided Expedition

Inclusions & exclusions

Inclusions

  • Ecological tax
  • Visa support (if necessary)
  • Border zone access permit
  • All transfers (in accordance with program)
  • Return helicopter flight Karkara — South Inylchek with no limit of luggage
  • Guest-house or hotel accommodation on half twin base in Almaty/Bishkek
  • Lunch-boxes on the way to Base Camp and back
  • Full board in Base Camps Karkara and South Inylchek
  • Accommodation in double tents in Base Camps
  • Dining tent and Kitchen tent in BC and ABC
  • Cooking accessories in BC and ABC
  • Consultations of experience guide
  • Interpreter’s service in BC and ABC
  • Medical aid in ABC (including complete set of oxygen equipment — mask, reducer, cylinder)
  • Radio support therefore you have to bring your own portable radio
  • Permanent source of Electricity in Base Camp Karkara 220V; 50Hz
  • Power generator (220V) for lighting and charging in the evening time in Base Camp South Inylchek
  • Washing cabin and sauna in Base Camp
  • Toilets in BC and ABC
  • Evacuation of garbage from BC and ABC

Exclusions

  • Cost of visa
  • Insurance
  • International flights
  • Cost of rescue team support (Depends on difficulty of rescue works)
  • Personal climbing equipment
  • High altitude climbing tents
  • Food away from base camps
  • Alcoholic beverages
  • Guide service

South Side Trip Pricing

From Almaty/Bishkek

Cost 1 Person

$2,050 USD

2 and more persons — $2,170 USD per person

When planning your expedition, please coordinate with our helicopter schedule to the mountain BEFORE booking air tickets.

North Side Guided Expedition

Inclusions & exclusions

Inclusions

  • Ecological tax
  • Visa support & military border permit
  • All transfers (in accordance with program)
  • Guesthouse or hotel accommodation on half twin base (in accordance with program)
  • Lunch on the way (in accordance with program)
  • Helicopter flight Karkara — North Inylchek — Karkara with no limits of luggage
  • Full board and accommodation in tents in Karkara Base Camp (3 days) and North Inylchek (8 days)
  • Mess tent with tables and chairs in Base Camps
  • Dining tent and Kitchen tent
  • Cooking accessories
  • Consultations of experience guide
  • Interpreter’s service
  • Medical aid in ABC (including complete set of oxygen equipment — mask, reducer, cylinder)
  • Radio support therefore you have to bring your own portable radio
  • Power generator (220V) for lighting and charging batteries
  • Washing cabin in Karkara Base Camp
  • Toilets in Base Camps
  • Evacuation of rubbish

Exclusions

  • Cost of visa
  • Insurance
  • International flights
  • Cost of rescue team support (Depends on difficulty of rescue works)
  • Personal climbing equipment
  • High altitude climbing tent
  • Food away from base camps
  • Alcoholic beverages
  • Guide service

North Side Trip Pricing

From Almaty

Cost 1 Person

$2,260 USD

2 persons — $2,170 USD per person
3 persons — $2,140 USD per person
4 persons — $2,100 USD per person
5 and more persons — $2,070 USD per person

When planning your expedition, please coordinate with our helicopter schedule to the mountain BEFORE booking air tickets.

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