KORJENEVSKAYA PEAK

TRIP DETAILS

Price: $2,850 USD + Guide/Equipment

Trip Length: 27 Days

Elevation: 7105 m (23,310 ft)

Trip Origin: Dushanbe, Tajikistan

Dates: July & August

Group: Individuals + Groups

Difficulty: Extreme

Experience: High Mountain Climbing

CHALLENGING WITH MAGNIFICENT VIEWS

Located in the isolated northern ridge of the Academy of Sciences Range and the Pamir Mountains, Korjenevskaya Peak rises 7105 meters (23,310 ft) above sea level. The peak was discovered by Russian scientist and geographer N.L. Korjenevskiy on August 10, 1910 and was named in honor of the wife of the explorer Evgeniya Kornjenevskaya. Korjenevskaya Peak has appeared on geographical maps since 1927.

Evgeniya Kornjenevskaya was a popular explorer of the Pamirs. His unsupassed knowledge of the geography of Central Asia was renowned at the time. Three major glaciers bear his name today – two in the Tian Shan Mountains and one in the Pamir Mountains.

Korjenevskaya Peak was first climed in by a Soviet expedition in 1953. There are now about 10 different routes of various levels of difficulty. The safest and easiest route to the summit starts from Moskvina Glacier and goes along a southern ridge. The Base Camp, situated at 4200 m (13,780 ft) at the confluence of Walter and Moskvina Glaciers, is the perfect starting point for climbing both Somoni Peak (24,590 ft) and Korjenevskaya Peak.

The main difficulties are high altitude and considerable physical exertion. Nevertheless, a magnificent view of the entire Pamir range compensates for the effort.

  • Discovered on August 10, 1910
  • Named after the wife of famous Soviet explorer Evgeniya Kornjenevskaya
  • First summit in 1953
  • Safest and easiest route from Moskvina Glacier

Route Description

Camp locations

The safest way for Korzhenevskaya climbing leads up from the Korzhenevski Glacier; mostly easy rock scrambling low down with extended snow and ice above. To Camp 1, hiking up along small river and crossing the Moskvin Glacier lead to the first bivouac site.

Camp 1 to Camp 2 – The route goes along a rather steep glacier, which comes down from the south slope of the mountain. Camp 2. is located at Morene. In the case of good weather, you can see all the way to the summit from this camp.

Camp 2 to Camp 3 – The route continues up the ice/snow slope and then a long traverse using crampons and ice axes toward the south ridge.

Camp 3 to Camp 4 – Here climbers meet the key of this route — the vertical rock step of about 50 m (164 ft). Then a long and technically easy way up along the snow crest.

Camp 4 to Summit – The route follows the snow crest towards the top. The view of a thousand summits (especially, Communism Peak) from here is great!

Climbing Korjenevskaya Peak

Sample itinerary

Day 1 – Arrival in Dushanbe. Accommodation in hotel
Day 2 – Take helicopter flight to Base Camp at Moskvina Glacier
Day 3 – Preparation day
Day 4 – Acclimatization climb to Vorobiova Peak to Camp 2 at 5300 m (17,389 ft)
Day 5 – Ascent the summit of Vorobiov Peak at 5690 m (18,668 ft). Descent to BC
Day 6 – Rest day
Day 7 – Preparation day
Day 8 – Ascent to Camp 1 at 5100 m (16,732 ft)
Day 9 – Ascent to 5300 m (17,389 ft). Descent to Base Camp
Day 10 – Rest day
Day 11 – Preparation day
Day 12 – Ascent to Camp 2 at 5300 m (17,389 ft)
Day 13 – Ascent to Camp 3 at 5800 m (19,029 ft)
Day 14 – Descent to Base Camp
Day 15 – Rest day
Day 16 – Rest day
Day 17 – Camp 2 at 5300 m (17,389 ft)
Day 18 – Camp 3 at 5800 m (19,029 ft)
Day 19 – Camp 4 at 6400 m (20,997 ft)
Day 20 – Ascent to the summit 7105 m (23,310 ft) and descent to Camp 2 or Camp 3
Day 21 – Descent to BC
Days 22-25 – Reserve days in case of bad weather
Day 26 – Take helicopter flight to Dushanbe. Overnight in hotel
Day 27 – Departure from Dushanbe

Guided Expedition

Inclusions & exclusions

Inclusions

  • Arranging of necessary documents
  • Meeting / seeing off transfers from / to airport
  • All transfers according to the program
  • Helicopter flights from Dushanbe to Base Camp (Moskvina Glacier)
    • Dushanbe with 30 kg (66 lbs) per person luggage limit (overload payment extra — max 10 kg/22 lbs)
  • Accommodation in Dushanbe (hotel 2* with breakfast, Twin room, 2 nights)
  • Accommodation in shared (between 2-3 persons) tents (tents in the Base Camp are improved with wooden flooring, and electric lighting)
  • Full board (variety of food including vegetarian, 3 meals a day from professional chef, possibility for special personal ordering)
  • Toilets, luggage office (tent) at BC
  • Sauna (steam room) at BC
  • Medical services (by professional doctor) in BC
  • Electric supply 220V; 50HZ
  • High-altitude guide consultancy services
  • Registration with rescue team

Exclusions

  • The cost of visa support
  • Document of acceptance of tourist
  • Tajikistan visa
  • Services of high-altitude guides and porters during ascending
  • Rent of mountaineering gear
  • Gas canisters and petrol for stoves and burners
  • Guide services

Trip Pricing

From Dushanbe

Full Package Per Person

$2,850 USD

SEPARATE SERVICES & FEES

  • Accommodation in tents
  • Meal – breakfast, lunch and dinner
  • Shower/Sauna
  • Filling of gas canisters
  • New gas canisters
  • Satellite phone, e-mail, bar – according to price list of the Base Camp
  • Rent of radio station
  • Services of a mountain guide
  • Services of porters for ascent

When planning your expedition, please coordinate with our helicopter schedule to the mountain BEFORE booking air tickets.

RESERVE YOUR TRIP TODAY!

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